Starting Seeds
by Joy Underhill

Many people are wondering when to start their seeds and how to do it. Here is some general information that will help you along.

First you should figure out where you are going to put them, and what you are going to put them in.

People use everything from 8-cell flats to a 72-cell flat. You can even use 3-5oz plastic or Styrofoam cups (set on a tray for easy carrying), egg cartons (dry out quickly but can be placed in a tray of water to make it easier to keep the soil moist). Even plastic containers. You can get clear plastic containers with a hinge on one side. Plant the seedlings in it, snap the cover down, it seals not airtight but tight enough to keep it from drying out. Then pop it under the lights. Keep a check on the moisture to see if it is too wet. Once they sprout open the lid up and let some air in then finally take the lid off. You can even use flat trays, which are good, if you are starting a lot of seeds with limited space and lights.

Using pellets can be convenient because you can pick up the whole pellet with your hand and transplant it without hurting your seedling. It is recommended to cut the net off the peat before transplanting.

How do you want to start them? You can plant them straight into the soil in your trays, or use a method called the Baggie Method.

You can pre-sprout nearly all your seeds using coffee filters and Baggies, then transplant sprouts to your trays or cell-packs. I use round basket-type coffee filters because the paper is denser than paper towels, so the roots don't get enmeshed in it as easily.

Here's what to do:

1) Mark a ziplock baggie with seed type, date, and any pertinent information about germ temps/ stratifying/ light required.

2) Wet a coffee filter, then squeeze out excess moisture so it is just damp, and not wet.

3) Imagining it as a pie, sow your seeds on 1/4 of the pie, and then fold the filter in half, then in half again. Your seeds should have one layer of filter on one side, three layers on the other.

4) Place the folded filter into the ziplock back, puff a little air in the baggie, then seal, leaving it just slightly puffed, not completely flat.

5) Place in warm place to germinate or in a Tupperware container in the fridge (so they don't get squished by the cucumbers!) for cold start, and wait . . .

Voila, little mini-greenhouse!

Check Baggies every few days, and remoisten as needed. Even if one doesn't appear to need remoistening, don't let them go over a week without opening them up for some fresh air.

Use a mister bottle with 1:20 hydrogen peroxide:water to help prevent mould and mildew from forming. You could use chamomile tea too if that is what you currently use. I have used just plain water with success. For seeds that need light, keep them with the single layer of filter up, and in bright light, though not direct sunlight. If they need dark, put in a drawer or cupboard. To transplant them to their trays pick up seeds/seedlings using a wet toothpick, handling only the seedcoats/leaves, not the stem or root. Use a second toothpick as a dibble, making a tiny hole or larger depending on the root. Put them root down, firm the mix around them and pop them under the lights.

If you are going to plant them right into the soil, seeds need water and oxygen to germinate, so are best started in a light, loose soil that will not compact, get soggy, or crust over. Cover seed with 2 - 4 times their thickness of soil, unless they require light to germinate. Barely cover small seed, and sprinkle fine seed on the surface and water by misting. Pay careful attention to the instructions in the catalogue and on the packet to ensure good results. You can also cover your trays with plastic to make a mini greenhouse and put a light over them to increase the heat. If you place the lights right above the plastic bags the air temperature inside the plastic bag will increase a lot and fry your seedlings. Never keep the lights within a foot of plastic covered seedling pots. Once the seedlings emerge, they shouldn't be in a bag or covered at all.

Common causes of seedling loss are damping off due to poor air circulation and over-watering. Keep soil moist, not soggy, and do not allow drying out. There are a few things you can do to prevent them from dampening off.

• Water seedlings or plugs from the bottom.

• Martha Stewart claims that she spreads a layer of sand over her seeds to prevent dampening off and that it works.

• The surface of the soil should not be wet all of the time. It even gets rid of the little black fungus gnats if you let the soil dry out.

• A small fan set on the seedlings is an ideal method in supplying adequate airflow. Don’t point it directly at them just have it going to circulate the air in the room.

• Weak chamomile tea. Put about 5 or 6 teabags in a 5-gallon bucket of water the day before using it. Then put the tea/water mixture in a sprayer and mist it on the seedlings until they are past the "age" of getting dampening off.

• Corn meal will also prevent dampening-off. Just sprinkle it over the top of the soil. I also have heard that a sprinkle of ground cinnamon works too.

• Crushed charcoal also makes a good top dressing for many alpines or slow germinating seed to discourage algae growth.

• 5 ml of drugstore type 3 % hydrogen peroxide to every 95 ml of water that can be used to water the seedlings (including the initial watering).

• To prevent diseases and insects use 8 oz. of 3% hydrogen peroxide and 8 oz. of molasses to one gallon of water. Mix the molasses in a small amount of hot water, then add enough water to make a gallon after also adding the hydrogen peroxide. Spray this on your entire garden at regular intervals of 7 to 10 days.

The molasses feeds beneficial bacteria that destroy many disease organisms.

You can use shop lights with 40-watt bulbs in them. One cool bulb and one warm bulb combined. Leave the lights on for 16 hours a day.

Get your lights right down on top of them, (1-4 inches) this will prevent legginess. Don’t forget to use a small fan to keep the air circulating in the room.

Leggy means the lights are too far away and the seedlings are reaching for the light

Do you have any gardening questions? Send your questions to editor@breadnmolasses.com with Gardening Question in the subject line of your email.

Joy Underhill has been an avid gardener for about five years. She lives and works from her home in Howards but in her spare time you can find her online at the Garden Forum.